OBERSON GUIDE
How to Wax Your Skis or Snowboard
The complete guide to hot waxing alpine skis, snowboards, touring skis, and splitboards.
IN BRIEF
Waxing your skis or snowboard pays off every time you go out—your skis glide better and are easier to handle. You need a few inexpensive tools and a workspace. The process is the same whether you're on alpine skis, a snowboard, touring skis, or a splitboard: prepare the base, choose the right wax for the temperature, iron it on, scrape off the excess, and finish with a brush.
What do you need to wax your skis or snowboard?
Find a workspace with a workbench where wax drips on the floor won't be a problem—it's inevitably messy. Place your skis or snowboard base up on vices or a pair of stable wooden blocks. Cover the floor underneath: wax drips and shavings are difficult to clean.
If you are waxing skis, retract the brakes before you start. Pull them up manually and wrap a thick rubber band around the brake arms and over the heel piece to hold them in the ski position.
Here's what you'll need:
Bench or table
Something solid to put your vices or blocks on
Stable vise or wood blocks
Keeps your skis or board level and securely in place
Hair ties
Keeps brakes retracted during work (skis only)
Citrus-based wax remover
Necessary if your base contains glue residue from skins, cold wax, or dirt
Wax
Universal or Temperature-Specific
Steel scraper
Steel scrapers remove material and damage the base
Copper brush
Open the base structure and remove the old wax before ironing
Nylon brush
Removes wax residue after scraping
Horsehair brush
Polished base structure for maximum glide
How do you prepare the base?
If your base has skin glue residue, cold wax, or significant dirt, start by using a citrus-based wax remover. Apply a small amount to a cloth and let the base dry completely before continuing. Don't make it a habit: wax remover removes all residual wax and dries out the base. Once or twice a season is enough.
Then, brush the copper brush from one end of the base to the other, from tip to tail. This opens the base structure, removes old wax residue, and optimizes absorption.
Which wax to choose?
Choose a universal wax if you want the simplest solution, if you ski in different regions, or if you only wax once or twice a season. Choose a temperature-specific wax to optimize your performance.
| Universal fart | Temperature-specific fragrance | |
|---|---|---|
| Perfect for | Variable conditions, infrequent waxing | Known conditions, performance-focused skiers |
| Performance | Reliable in all conditions | Superior in its temperature range |
| Practicality | One wax for all temperatures | Requires monitoring weather forecasts |
| Price | More affordable | Slightly higher |
Universal Wax
Works in all snow conditions and at all temperatures. This is a good choice if you wax infrequently, ski in different regions, or simply want to keep things simple.
Temperature-Specific Wax
Formulated for a precise snow temperature range. If you're torn between two waxes, opt for the colder one: cold-weather waxes handle warm snow better than the reverse. You can also mix two specific waxes for borderline conditions.
Note on Fluorocarbon Waxes
Fluorinated waxes have been banned from competitions by FIS starting from the 2023-2024 season due to health and environmental concerns, and are no longer in production. All waxes available on the market today are hydrocarbon-based or plant-based.
How do you apply wax?
- Set your iron between 120°C and 150°C. The ideal temperature depends on the wax used—consult the manufacturer's recommendations. If the wax smokes when it touches the iron's soleplate, your iron is too hot.
- Press the wax block against the iron and let it drip in a zigzag pattern along the entire length of the ski or board. Complete coverage is not necessary at this stage: you will spread the wax in the next step.
- Place the iron on the base and move it from tip to tail in slow, linear motions, spreading the wax evenly over the entire surface. Keep the iron moving at about 5 to 7 centimeters per second; if the base is too hot to touch, you are moving too slowly.
- Allow the wax to cool completely (about 30 minutes at room temperature) before scraping.
How do you scrape the base?
Only use a plastic scraper. Steel will remove material and damage your base. Keep it sharp; a dull scraper is one of the most common mistakes among beginners. You can sharpen it by running the edge over a sheet of sandpaper or with a scraper sharpener.
1. Tilt the scraper forward so the top edge leads, and push from tip to tail in firm, overlapping passes.
2. Continue scraping until there is no more wax on the base.
3. Run the short side of the scraper along each edge to remove any residual wax.
The goal: for the wax to be in the base, not on top. The final surface should have a slightly oily look, not a thick white coating.
How to brush the base?
Do not skip this step. It removes excess wax and allows the base structure to express its full gliding potential.
- Take the nylon brush and brush from tip to tail in short, overlapping strokes until no wax residue remains.
- Finish with the horsehair brush, always from tip to tail, to polish the structure.
You are finished when the base has a uniform luster along its entire length.
If you regularly wax for the whole family, a rotary brush (ROTO) that attaches to a drill is a time-saving investment.
FAQ — How to Wax Your Skis or Snowboard
How often should you wax your skis or snowboard?
Oberson technicians point out that ideally, skis should be waxed before every outing. Let's be honest: waxing before every outing is a lot of work. According to them, the simplest way to tell if your skis need waxing is to look at the base. If it starts to turn white, it's time to wax. Sintered bases (found on most quality skis and boards) are more porous and show signs of dryness faster than extruded bases, common on entry-level and park equipment.
Should you wax new skis or a new snowboard before the first use?
Yes. Most new skis and boards come with a thin protective wax designed to preserve the base during transport, not for performance on snow. Wax them before your first outing for maximum enjoyment.
Can you wax your skis too often?
No, waxing more frequently can only be beneficial for your skis. It keeps the base hydrated, improves glide, and protects against abrasion. The only limit is your time and motivation.
Can you use a regular iron to wax your skis or snowboard?
Yes, but with a few caveats. First, don't use your partner's iron: the wax will permanently ruin it as a clothes iron. Fast skis are probably not worth that conversation! Dedicate an old iron to this task, or better yet, invest in a proper waxing iron. A waxing iron is calibrated in degrees rather than fabric types, maintains a more consistent temperature, and has a lower maximum temperature, making it harder to accidentally burn your base. If you still use a regular clothes iron, avoid models with steam holes (wax will get stuck in them), do not exceed the wool setting, and watch for smoke: that means your iron is too hot.
Can wax that has fallen on the ground be reused?
No. Once wax touches the floor, it picks up dust, dirt, and debris that can damage your base. Throw it away and start with fresh wax.
Are alpine touring skis and splitboards waxed differently?
No, the waxing process for alpine touring skis and splitboards is identical to that for their alpine and snowboard counterparts. The only additional consideration for splitboards concerns skin glue residue on the base, which must be removed with a citrus-based wax remover before waxing. This is discussed in step 2.
The Oberson Maintenance Workshop
Prefer to leave it to the pros? The Oberson workshop at DIX30 is equipped with the Wintersteiger Jupiter—the most advanced tuning machine in the industry, capable of edge angle adjustments to a tenth of a degree. Whether you're on alpine skis, all-mountain, freeride, a snowboard or a splitboard, our technicians provide the best maintenance in North America. Well-maintained skis ski better with less effort—no matter your skill level.
